Ever since I let my buddy use my older table saw in his shop, I’ve been meaning to remake a sled for my new one. As mentioned in the video, I have a larger sled. It’s a nice one from Rockler, the problem is it’s big and take up space when not in use. Not to mention, it’s usually not as easy to get to. To cut down on the hassle of taking it out for smaller parts, building this smaller version will allow me to have it close to the table saw.
- Saw Stop Table Saw https://amzn.to/2M3x3km
- Rockler Sled https://amzn.to/2RFWnCl
- Clamps https://amzn.to/2RFVBoV
- Empire Speed Square https://amzn.to/2SOOLe2
- Cordless Sander https://amzn.to/2VLe6Hv
- Sander https://amzn.to/2CVX0k2
- 120 grit sandpaper https://amzn.to/2CWhE3B
- 220 grit sandpaper https://amzn.to/2q48Tfu
- 400 grit sandpaper https://amzn.to/2CXwaID
See diagram below.
This sled is made entirely of ¾ in plywood. Here you can see the see all of the measurements.
Check to make sure the miter gauge is squared with the saw blade. Then, line up the sled to with the miter gauge. I know not all table saws come with a good miter gauge. In this case, you can make a miter bar. I gave a great example in the older table saw crosscut fence video on how to do this. The placement is optional, but the end of the sled (the short side) is placed 6in away from the blade. Honestly, there is a great chance this entire side will be cut off in the future.
Since my gauge has the slots for the bolts I marked and installed a threaded insert. These are greats for shop jigs and furniture. I highly recommend them.
After attaching the sled to the miter gauge double check to make sure it’s still squared to the blade. Now make your first cut into the sled.
To make the stop, locate the two pieces. Attached smaller part to the end of the larger piece. Then Drill out a 5/16’’ hole at the location of the T-Track.