Sponsored by: GE Sealants & Adhesives
I am changing my door trim to a craftsman style. Whoever owned this house prior more than likely had a large dog. A lot of the baseboard and door casement was chewed and there was a sign of water damage. In some areas, I had just painted over the damage for the time being. I suspect this will be a big job in the future, replacing all the trims and casements. At the moment, my shop is at the top of the priority list. I have done some recent updates in the shop, and this will be my focus until I have things worked out with the hopes of being efficient.
This door trim is one of the biggest eyesores in the garage, and I have ignored it long enough. The time has come for this project; I first tried to find a matching door trim at my local box store. After failing at that, I decided I was not going to put too much time into finding a direct replacement for something I was not too crazy about, to begin with. I looked up some modern and craftsman ideas online, and the craftsman stuck out more to me. So, we are going to roll with that.
Before getting started, I listed out the tools and materials I used in this project.
Want to make your own?
Follow the steps below to complete this project.
- (3) -1 in. x 5 in. x 8 ft. Primed Finger-Joint Board https://homedepot.sjv.io/Avy27
- 5ft of – 100 11/16 in. x 11/16 in. FEMDF Cove Moulding https://homedepot.sjv.io/zoer6
- Max Shield Painter’s Seal & Paint Sealant https://amzn.to/2YpeWNX
- Paint and accessories
Parts and dimension:
- (2) [Part A] Flat Casing – 80in by 4-1/2in by .3/4in
- (1) [Part B] Bottom Trimplank – 46-3/4in by 1-1/2in by 3/4in
- (1) [Part C] Middle Trimplank – 44-3/4in by 4-1/2in by 3/4in
- (1) [Part E] Top Trimplank – 47-3/4in by 2in by 3/4in
- (1) [Part D] Trim Coner Face – 45-3/4in with miter ends
- (2) [Part D] Trim Coner Sides – 3/4in with miter end
STEP 1: Cut the caulking around the door trim
Use a utility knife to cut away the existing caulking around the door trim. Scored outside the frame and the inside of the frame. Doing this will prevent the drywall from tearing.
STEP 2. Remove the existing door trim
Next, use a pry bar or a trim puller to remove the door trim. While you’re at it, make sure you remove any leftover caulk. I used a joint knife to prevent further damage to the drywall while using the trim puller.
STEP 3: Set the edge of the door casement
Draw a line 3/8″ around the door frame. This will help with placing the casing. Do this at the two top corners and another near the middle and bottom.
STEP 4: Cut the door trim
Measure from the crossing line at the top to the floor to determine the length of the casing. Since I’m doing this in my garage, the floor has a pitch. This means both casings have different lengths. If you are doing this on the interior, then you shouldn’t have this issue. To speed this up, consider clamping the casement and cut both at once.
Note: I used this prime board for the entire casement, so you will need to rip the boards down to size.
STEP 5: Nail the door trim on
A. For the fastest results, you will need a nailer with 2in brad nails. Place the casement on the lines marked on the door frame, then nail the board to the door frame. I spaced the nails about 12 to 15 inches apart.
B. (Bottom Trimplank): Then, Add a trim plank. This will rest on the casement. Nail the plank to the top of the casement. Two nails on each side will do the job.
C. (Middle Trimplank): Now, add a plank at the top of part (B), this should be lined up with the casement part (C). Nail this to the framing and into the wall at an angle; you may need longer nails to reach a stud. Next, shoot a couple of nails through part (B) into part (A). Finally, nail part (A) To the framing, a
D. (Top Timpplank): Now, add the trim plank above the middle trim plank. Nail that to the top of the middle plank.
E. To finish this off, I’ll add some corner trim. This part will have a miter joint to give the cleanest appearance.
STEP 6: Prep for painting
First, you’ll want to prepare the casement before painting.
b) Next, I will use Max Shield Painter’s sealant, a GE- branded sealant. This is perfect for windows, doors, trim, and molding. It’s waterproof, mold-resistant, paintable, and the best part it’s easy to clean up.
c) To apply the Max Shield, sealant, I like to cut the tip as small as possible first; this way, I can fill the joints that do not need much sealant first. Next, I’ll cut the tip wider to fill the bigger gaps around the casements.
STEP 7: Paint
b) For a smooth finish, use spray paint or paint in a sprayer, a foam roller is the next option for an excellent finish, and then you can use a brush.
a) Before applying paint, sand the trim carefully by hand. An orbital sander can be used for the large surface.
In a few simple steps, you too can update your space by adding an artisan look to it, one door at a time.
GE is a trademark of the General Electric Company. Used under trademark license.
*Max is a trademark of Momentive Performance Materials Inc.