Doing things yourself is one of the ways you can build cool and custom pieces on a budget. Whether you are looking to add organization, improve your closet space or just looking to add a wardrobe in a spare bedroom, it’s possible. We needed some extra storage and had a specific spot for it. The overall dimension is 75in high by 41.5in wide by 19in deep. This design is completely customizable and can certainly go bigger. I am pretty happy with that way this came out. I usually don’t go for the natural look, but with a touch of white, I think this works well. If you want to follow along and build yours follow the instructions below.
- 3 – 3/4 (4×8) Birch plywood (structure)
- 3 – 1 by 12 by 48 pin lumber (drawer)
- 2 – Roll of edge band
- 1 – 1/4 (4×8) plywood (back and drawer bottom)
- 1 – pair of 16in drawer slide https://amzn.to/2Fyhm1F
- 1 – 15in drawer pull (handle) https://amzn.to/2HMoR8K
- Edge band Trimmer https://amzn.to/2HTWLrD
- Closest rod https://homedepot.sjv.io/zBZeG
|PART A||5||40||1016||18 3/4||476.25||3/4||19.05|
|PART C||1||46 15/16||1192.21||18 3/4||476.25||3/4||19.05|
|PART D||1||39 3/4||1009.65||7 3/4||187.325||3/4||19.05|
|PART E||3||14||355.6||1 1/2||38.1||3/4||19.05|
|PART H||2||17 3/4||450.85||7||177.8||3/4||19.05|
|PART J||1||38||965.2||16 3/4||425.45||1/4||6.35|
First, cut down the plywood sheets down to a manageable size, I will be using a circular saw and Kreg rip cut guide. Once the sheets become manageable tool them over to the table saw. I prepared all the cut’s before assembling. Note: The original design did not have the rabbet joints for the drawer. I am stating this because the measurements for the width of the drawer lumber (front and back) will be slightly longer than in this cutlist. Build your frame and then you’re the drawer last.
To follow along with the video I made a quick jig so that I could set the depth of the table saw blade. This was key to me being able to put the blade back in the same position after adjusting. The jig should also help you set the distance between the blade and the fence. It’s always a good idea to use the scrap wood to test on before making cuts to your final project. It’s easier for me to use the same table saw blade rather than changing to a dado stack. After the drawers are cut to the final dimension, make a slot for the drawer bottom.
For the middle divider, I cut a dado joint. It may be more work upfront but will save time in the end with aligning. You can use a pocket hole connection jig to plug the hole or use screws from the top and bottom shelves as well.
For efficiency, drill all the locations for the pocket hole screws prior to assembling.
Locate the parts to build the frame. Before you do anything, make sure the pocket holes are hidden — something to consider. You can use wood glue as well for added strength as you began to join the parts. Since I work alone these clamp-it corner clamps a very helpful and will keep things align as screws are added.
After putting the frame together, add the bottom shelf to the drawer enclosure. The distance from the base depends on how much space you need for your shoes. I put a 7in space here, feel free to add more or less depending on your preference. Locate the next shelf with the drawer enclosure. This piece has the dado cut running through it.
Spacing is crucial; I have exactly 8 inches of spacing between the two shelves. The draw cover needs to fit within the opening having the same space around the sides, the top, and the bottom. Make sure that the dado joint is facing up. Use the middle divider to set the spacing for the top shelf. Add glue to the joint, and then work the divider into its place. Next, add the back. Note: I added rabbet cuts to the inside of the side panel. It allows the back panel to sit even with the sides. Doing this will hide the plywood ends. Apply wood glue to the surface of where the plywood backing is going to sit. Then, add brad nails to the top and bottom to hold things in place. Finally, add clamps and weights. If you do not own a brad nailer wood glue is strong enough on its own.
The shelves are only constructed of two parts, a sheet of plywood and the trim to cover the visible plywood layers. Note: When I designed this the end trim was supposed to butt up against the plywood and then add glue and nails. This is still possible, but if you want to make a rabbet joint in the trim as shown in the video all you would need is wood glue and then clamp it. You will also need to make will need to trim the shelf support, this way the shelves can be pushed all the way back.
To assemble the drawer glue the joints, it can be challenging to keep the drawer square. However, a band clamp is an ideal solution. Use the band clamp to hold its shape, next, check to make sure all the measurements are equal. You can add additional clamps as well.
To give a finishing look, I use an iron-on edge band. Since I used birch plywood, I also used a birch edge band. Apply the edge band to all the visible ends. Next, I use a 3\8 dowel to plug the holes left from the pocket holes, this improves appearance.
Sand down the entire wardrobe. After, you can determine the space for your shelves. This is also a great time to add support for your shelves.
This is the look that fits our taste so go wild and make this fit yours. I just used white gloss paint for the clothing area and the drawer front. Then, I used a fast drying water-based polycrylic to finish it off.
Finally, install the hardware. The components are: drawer slides, pull handle, and the clothes rod.