In this project, I’ll be sharing my experience creating a neat little epoxy resin table for my two-year-old daughter. The back story is she loves to follow me from room to room, and I love having her around me. Being a content creator I am always on the computer trying to get work done. As long as I’m in her sight, that’s enough. I made her a desk awhile back, but that was too bulky to lug around. This is why this table came about. For our purpose, it’s a kids table, for others this would make a perfect nightstand or end table. The same concept can be applied to any surface. The resin I’m using is from Countertop Epoxy. There is certainly many brands out there and this is the one I have experience with. I went with epoxy because it’s durable and easy to maintain. The more layers you have the more you can wet sand it to remove scratches.
Epoxy resin Used
- Countertop epoxy: Click here to get 10% off used promo code “diycreators” at checkout.
- White (prime coat), Aged Brown, Turquoise, Light Brown, Silver, Black Click Here
- 16in Legs https://amzn.to/2CWiVYA
- (1in)X(24in) pine edge glued panel round board: Click Here
Magnet Drive tips http://bit.ly/2CIb3Ke
Fuel Drill Driver https://amzn.to/2pWZ3Mm
Digital Scale https://amzn.to/2CeVSqP
120 grit sand paper https://amzn.to/2CWhE3B
220 grit sand paper https://amzn.to/2q48Tfu
400 grit sand paper https://amzn.to/2CXwaID
- (1) 91% isopropyl Alcohol https://amzn.to/2vvAf0X Great for epoxy clean up
- (1) Spray bottle https://amzn.to/2OksAJY
- Mixing sticks https://amzn.to/2Mc1AyY
- mixing cup https://amzn.to/2OoiI1X
- (1) disposable Gloves https://amzn.to/2nkPMfI
- (1) Clean up rags https://amzn.to/2no8Ppm
- Torch kit https://amzn.to/2PJC7eR
Chose your tabletop, I used an edge-glued panel round board. Then sand it down with 120 grit followed by 220 grit. Think about the base color you would want to use, in the project I used white. Since this project, I learned that it’s best to apply a primer coat on the raw material. This should prevent the exposed grain Issue I ran into later on in the project.
The epoxy used in the projects is a 1 to 1 mix. One part hardener one part resin. If you check on Countertop Epoxy’s website you will find a chart to help you with square foot coverage. 24oz. of resin was just the right amount for this 24-inch table.
Here is the mixing process I used:
- 12oz. Hardener part B +12oz.Resin Part A
- Pour the hardener into a mixing cup first follow by the resin
- Mix this for 5 minutes
- Pour into a new container and add your base color and mix for 4 more minutes.
- You’re now ready
You will repeat the same process for each pour. For the final coat, I just used the resin with no color.
This was a two-part process. The first pour was the base (I went with white). After pouring the resin on the work-piece, I used a brush to evenly spread it. It also helps if you’re on a leveled surface. Now you’ll need to remove the bubbles. I tried a heat gun and I was not a fan, I like the torch better. This part is quite simple, start from one end then work your way to the other. Keep the torch moving, once you’re done it should look like glass. Now, begin your second pour, adding all the colors you will want to see in the mix. Once you’ve mixed the second container of epoxy, you will transfer it to a new container (I used plastic cups). This is when you’re going to add your individual colors.
For the second pour, I used a dirty pour technique. I used a total of 5 colors, but you can pick all the colors you would want to see in the end result. I then took a piece of 4-inch pipe and placed it on the white base. Make sure you have everything prepped and ready to go, it’s best if you do all of this within 30 to 45 minutes of pouring the base.
Now, pour all of the colors into the PVC pipe. Do not mix it! Next, slightly spin and lift the PVC tube and push it in the desired path. It would help if you draw out a pattern path first, rather than to try and figure it out while in the motion. I kept it simple, I pushed the resin in one direction then back. You can try anything you like, swirling the pipe, zigzag, or whatever comes to mind. You can even tilt the work-piece to create movement in the design. Once you get the pattern you like, take the torch and remove the bubbles. Then, let this sit for 24 hours.
Inspect your work piece, if that looks good then you are set. As I said in the video I, ran into some mishaps, so I had to address that before moving on. Had my process worked out in my favor I would have been done. Adding a layer of clear coat would only help and I would still recommend it, especially if you love the design. An additional clear coat adds protection. I’d recommend lightly sanding it with the following 120grit, 220grit and 400grit prior to pouring the clear coat.
Remove the sand dust with a wet rag. Make sure the surface is dry. Mix up enough resin to cover the top and then pour it on the work surface. Take a brush and spread it followed by the torch. Let this set for 24 hours.
Clean up the hardened drips on the bottom.
Here is the finished product and Lia is enjoying her new table. I hope you enjoyed this post if you did I would love to hear what you think about it. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for stopping by, and check out my links below to stay up to date and see what’s next to come.
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