This DIY Platform Bed with Floating Nightstands has everything you need to enhance your bedroom. The LED light strip along the back of the ample headboard offers a luxurious feel, the floating nightstands provide storage and hidden electrical outlets with ports to charge your devices. This clean, modern design delivers both sophistication and comfort.
Although this might seem like a daunting project, especially as a novice woodworker, I believe that the key to being successful is approaching all of your projects with patience. Be sure to check out the video (at the bottom of the page) for additional info. If you would like to build this, I have a detailed set of PLANS for this project.
Note: Wood may not be actual size listed below. For example (2 by 4 is actual 1.5 by 3.5)
– ( 16) 2 by 8 Lumber (headboard, bed frame and bed trim) https://goo.gl/95nXPu
– (1) 2 by 12 lumber (top and bottom nightstand) https://goo.gl/NAmx3O
– (1) sheet or 3/4in (19.05mm) plywood a small piece
– (2) sheet of 1/4in (6.35mm) plywood
– (10) 1 by 4 (25.4mm by 101.6mm) lumber https://goo.gl/PcbUEn
– (4) 2 by 4 (50.8mm by 101.6mm) Lumber https://goo.gl/Eo95vq
– (4 packs) Corner brace (outside of the bed trim and inside bed foot) http://amzn.to/2oAkt07
– (2 packs) Corner brace (inside the bed trim ) http://amzn.to/2pFeaI6
– (1 packs) Mending plate (bed foot frame) http://amzn.to/2ojAFB6
– L- brackets for the bed frame http://amzn.to/2ppPJzg
– 1/4in – 20 inserts (to mount the nightstand) http://amzn.to/2pFCmKx
– 1/4in round head Philips 3in long
– 1/4in Washer
– #10 Screws (2 in)
– #8 Screws (1.5in)
LED, Electrical, and wire
– Puck Lights http://amzn.to/2oAsGSl
– Led Strip http://amzn.to/2nRlkwr
– Round switch http://amzn.to/2p7FWB1
– (2) Outlet with USB ports http://amzn.to/2ojCNZX
– (2 ) outlet cover http://amzn.to/2oMFJlx
– (2) workbox [junction box] http://amzn.to/2nRha7Y
– Electrical wire(for the outlet) http://amzn.to/2ojBgTC
– Receptacle Tester – http://amzn.to/2oMLcJ2
– 22 gauge wire (for the puck light switch) http://amzn.to/2oDjq1g
– Extension cord http://amzn.to/2oMKiw3
- Measuring tape http://amzn.to/2nR8ePV
- Miter Saw http://amzn.to/2ojzdPz
- Orbital sander http://amzn.to/2oA4I9F
- 80 grit sandpaper http://amzn.to/2ojyzBB
- 120 grit sandpaper http://amzn.to/2ppF0F0
- 220 grit sandpaper http://amzn.to/2oAdJ2u
- Keter workbench – http://amzn.to/2ojo2WX
- Rockler Clamps – http://www.rockler.com/clamps
- Dowel jig http://www.rockler.com/complete-doweling-jig-kit
- Pocket hole jig http://amzn.to/2ppsVzp
- Drill http://amzn.to/2oDfrSr
- Jigsaw http://amzn.to/2ojEKoZ
- Mallet http://amzn.to/2nRg2ks
- Combination square http://amzn.to/2pF3vxa
- Framing square http://amzn.to/2oMANx5
- Wood glue http://amzn.to/2oD6SqK
Although this project can be made with a circular saw, I would highly suggest a miter saw to speed things up. After all the lumber was cut down to size, I began the sanding process. Prepare for hours of sanding and be sure to wear a mask and safety glasses. I sanded the bed down with 80 grit sandpaper first, then 120 grit, followed by 220 grit.
Next, paint or stain the bed frame whatever color you prefer. I chose black.
To extend the 8ft sheet of plywood, I had to attach a small section using glue and pocket hole screws. I then painted the bottom section of the plywood to match the bed frame.
Having an extra set of hands would have been ideal while attaching the lumber for the headboard to the plywood. I didn’t have that luxury at the time, so I took advantage of the clamps I had on hand to help secure the lumber. I started adding the wood from the top down, but in hindsight, it would have been easier to start from the bottom up.
After I had the lumber clamped in place, I used screws for attaching it together, using 2 screws every 2 feet. I repeated the process until I reached the end.
For the finish, I used one coat of Dark Walnut Danish oil, additional coats could be applied if a darker look is desired.
With the headboard being so massive, it made sense to add outlets in the nightstands. I selected a less attractive piece of wood to be the back of the nightstand. Then I cut out the opening for the electrical work box .
Building the Floating Nightstand
I used a dowel jig from Rockler to make accurate holes for the dowel pins. You have to be patient with dowels, you could cause your work piece to shift if you are even a fraction off, which could be very frustrating. The next option would be to use screws and fill the heads with wood filler. Either route you take, be sure to use wood glue and clamps.
Mounting the Nightstand
After allowing enough time for the glue to dry, use clamps to attach the nightstand at the desired mounting height. I chose to mount them approximately 2 inches below the top of the mattress. Next, drill 4 pilot holes from the back of the headboard. These will be the mounting hole. To clarify the pilot hole should not exit out the nightstand (this should only mark the back). While the nightstand is still mounted with the clamps, trace out the hole for the electric box onto the headboard. Next, drill a hole for the small On/Off switch and drill an angled hole at the bottom into the headboard for the puck light. Repeat this process for the other nightstand.
Now, remove the nightstand and drill out a 1/4” hole for the bolts to pass through. Then, install threaded inserts into the back of the nightstand. Be sure to add a stop to the drill bit to prevent going all the way through.
Applying top coat
Apply wipe-on polyurethane or a top coat of your choice. I used two coats, but a third coat would have been even better. I sanded between each coat with 400 grit sandpaper.
I attached strips of lumber to the back of the headboard (as shown). This is where I will place the led strip.
Adding puck lights
I chose a wired kit as opposed to a wireless kit for the puck lights because I’m not fond of maintenance (replacing batteries etc.). The set I used can be found here on Amazon.
I cut the connector off the wire and passed the wire through the hole previously drilled. Then, I screwed the lights in place. Next, I connected the two conductor wire to the power switch. Then, I installed the LED strip on the lumber mounted to the back of the headboard.
Make sure to strap all wiring down, so nothing is loose. After wiring, the receptacles double check your connections by using a receptacle tester.
As shown in the photos, there are two different plugs: one for the LEDS and another for the outlets. The LED and the puck lights are both wired from the same power supply, so be sure to check the ratings before connecting.
I used corner brackets in all 4 corners to assemble the bed frame. Then, I installed the bed slat supports. By the time I reached the middle frame, I realized that I have forgotten to pick up enough brackets, so I used what I had on hand. Do not make the same mistake I did. Make sure you have all your materials prior to getting started.
Install the slats by adding two screws at each intersecting point.
I use brackets on the inside and the outside of the bed. You could add as many as you like, 4 seemed to do the job for me. Each trim had four 1.5in corner brackets on the interior and 4 1in brackets on the outside. At the foot of the bed, I used mending plates to attach the two intersecting lumbers. This method for keeping the lumbers even worked out very well.
Once the frame was done it was time to center it and attach it to the headboard.
This Platform Bed with Floating Nightstands will be an impressive addition to your bedroom. The LED lights add a romantic sophistication and the floating nightstands keep your most needed items within an arm’s reach. This is a project that will provide many years of enjoyment. Make sure to check out the detailed set of PLANS for this project.